The grass is greener



It seems extraordinary, but my last post here was exactly a year ago on August 15 a.k.a Ferragosto 2019, the biggest Italian, summer public holiday. 

I still remember the first, heart-rending sight of our trullo immersed in a sea of ugly weeds, the pool-cover groaning with slime and brackish water, the interiors damp and unloved, a fine layer of dust covering the treasures I'd collected over so long and carted with such joy in a truck, some 2000km from London the year before. We had been so full of hope and then....




 
This visit could not have been more different, even if the frustrations and delays are exactly the same. For a start, it was incredibly exciting (and slightly scary) to take one of the first flights out of London as lockdown was lifted in July and despite the surreal experience of empty airports, a flight swathed in masks and hand gel, temperature testing and contact and trace forms, our arrival and first impressions of the trullo were unforgettable. 





Our amazing neighbour, Giuseppe - see two blogs before this one - had introduced us to Michele La Terza, a spherical fellow whose love of food was evident but whose green fingers were said to be legendary. "Leave it to him, trust me" said Giuseppe.



Michele and his wife


We have around 5,000 square meters of land with 30 or so olive trees, stone fruit trees including plums and cherries, almonds and fig trees galore around the trullo but the little plot had been abandoned for half a century, overgrown and desperate for love, attention and someone with a tough and learned pruning hand. 

As we parked the car, rather than a view of weeds and thigh high grass we could see the sea! All of a sudden, what had looked like a sad, arid block with building rubble and a few trees on it looked like a woman after her first, Covid 19 hair cut and blow dry! Wow! 

At left, the sea sparkled through trees carefully pruned - olives when tended are cut with a flat top - while at right, our straggly oleanders, planted around the back of the pool in a fit of optimism two years ago had blossomed into plump, flowering blots of green and pink against the white. 









Walking down toward the front, we could see that what had been weed and dry dust, was slowly succumbing to a gentle swathe of what is known as 'gramigna', a soft indigenous grass which is nevertheless tough enough to live on sand dunes and live through the winter frosts we get up on our hillside. 


The pool, with its little stone edge installed at last looked happy, clean and inviting - and the trullo - tended over the winter by a local lady who came and aired it and put the heaters on once a week to banish condensation - said 'Welcome, come in!'

















While we'd not had much of a win with the builder - a few bits and pieces had been done before Covid struck but nothing really in the months before - we did  triumph against the national electricity provider which had quoted €5,000 (!) to remove a redundant electricity pole which was butted right up against the trullo. 

Now that we had undergrounded the power cables during the restoration process, the pole was not only ugly and spoiled the views but was of no use at all. One day, I trained my Iphone onto the top and zooming in on the shots, saw that the concrete was eaten away....one sharp letter to the power company warning their pole had concrete cancer and we'd bill them if it crashed down on the trullo and it was gone. Gratis! 


With pole
With pole



Sans pole!




We're here for a month now, to try and follow up on the outstanding works (the new water cistern needs connection, earth-movers in to fill the cables trenches, erection of a pergola and finish to the paving, sealing of the trullo flat roof areas etc etc) not to mention the final chapter of the permits saga. I'm an optimist at heart - we had to be over the last three years - and determined that this dream of ours must come to fruition. 





More to come, watch this space.






Comments

  1. I read your story in The Australian 29/08/20 and I was captivated by your vision and courage, and moved by your account of the (almost) loss of your dream. This blog post is a wonderful sequel. May you spend many many happy years in your beautiful trullo.

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  2. Just finished the article in the Aus. OMG. What a drama. Gives meaning to the statement that "nothing worthwhile is easy!"
    Good luck to you guys. Go for it and enjoy. I've always appreciated your writing Paola.

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  3. Paola, it is stories like yours that justify our subscription to the Oz! What an ordeal! Having lived in Rome myself for three years in the nineties, I know from experiences how easily the best laid plans can be undermined by smooth talking service providers who are all talk and no service! I'm delighted that your story has such a magnificent ending, and wish you tante vacanze meravigliose!

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  4. Wow, what a story. We are lying in bed late on Saturday night locked down in Melbourne, Australia staring at a photo of our favourite Trulli. We share your passion for Puglia but not your bravery - congratulations!!

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  5. I loved your story in The Australian newspaper and the problems you have had to achieve your dream. As Nelson Mandala said when I met him, you will hit hurdles working towards your dream, find a way over them, under them or around them, but never give up and you will achieve your goal and dream. You have shown that it is possible!

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  6. Just read your story in the Australian. I have a Lamia just south of Cisternino. Currently stuck in Aus but we have good people looking after our place for us. Your place looks cool.

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    1. I hope you get to travel soon and perhaps we will cross paths one day on your return?

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  7. Paola: Long a fan of your writing ... this tale of the "trullo/trulli dream" and the punctuation marks along the way to its realisation matches that of many others in restoration projects! Like all the preceding posts here I found your story in the Weekend Australian Magazine. Many years ago in another life I met your father and he entrusted me with some of his poetry - one of which in included in an anthology published by OUP in 1990 (Made in Australia) - and I've forgotten the style of poetry - using a number of languages within the poem - a kind of hybrid-English: "6 p.m.: Le Cleaners Dans L'Office" the title of the one in the anthology... Could you tell me?

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    1. I will ask him on the weekend when I call Aus and get back to you!

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  8. Enjoyed reading your story and could well relate..in 2018 we bought a studio apartment in Trani, on the coast, not that far from where you are...and yes, we too had dramas but luckily (fingers crossed) we will return soon. Lockdown in Melbourne is difficult knowing our tiny place awaits! Being of Italian heritage I long to return to see family and friends. Good luck with your ongoing dream.

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  9. Reading the article in lockdown Melbourne was something I needed! I visited 2 years ago and said I’d return! I can only dream this will happen one day ... I loved reading about your passion and determination... let’s hope your trulli is filled with laughter and happiness!

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    1. Oh that's so kind! We will indeed be renting our trullo if we manage to fulfil the dream so please keep reading and keep in touch! I hope poor Melbourne gets better very soon...what a world we live in at the moment. :(

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